Day 4 - Feeding the Reptiles

    This morning most of the faculty helped to clear out a section of the garden outside the HMNS that was full of weeds. This area is eventually going to turn into a garden that has plants for pollinators! I worked on a clump of weeds that had super matted roots, which was a very tedious process until Soni (who manages the greenhouses and gardens) whipped out a hoe. The rest is history! After everyone had finished, we were left with about 10 trash bags of weeds which we tossed into a bin for compost. 

    Kaeli had me do the first butterfly release of the day, and there were a lot of butterflies! There were a few that were a part of the Longevity Study, which the museum does with different species every couple of months. For these butterflies, Kaeli taught me how to place numbers on each one to keep track of them. First, you clasp the butterfly between your pointer and middle fingers (and as close as possible to its abdomen), then take a cotton swab and gently rub away some of the scales on the outside (lower section) of each wing. After that, you gently place a sticker on both sides with the same number and place the butterfly back into the 'release' cage. Kaeli assured me that this doesn't hurt them at all! She also tried to teach me how to identify the sex of a butterfly. It was very confusing. 

    I finally got a chance to care for the reptiles! Celeste showed me how to feet the two iguanas, the three tortoises, the constrictor, and the cavefish. The iguanas and tortoises have the same diet, such as leafy greens, pineberries (white strawberries), snow peas, sweet potato, zucchini, and so on, but their kibble is different. Since the retired iguana is really old, he doesn't get any kibble. You also have to hand-feed him since he is, once again, very old. For Nacho, you just place a plate of food on a ledge and he knows where to find it. For the tortoises (they're absolutely adorable), I just placed their food down and gathered them together so they could eat. Picking them up is like picking up bumpy rocks! For the snake, whose name is Nagini, I just thawed a mouse in a hot water and used forceps to hold it. Since he's a constrictor, he just snatched it from me and wrapped around it straight away! Finally, for the cavefish, I just added frozen fish food to their tank. 

Facts I learned: 

• The retired iguana is 23, and the one roaming around the conservatory is 9. 
• The reproductive organs on butterflies look different for each species

Additional Research:

• Red-Footed Tortoises
• These animals are native to the forests and grasslands of Central and South America. They can live up to 50 years old in captivity and are fairly large creatures. So having enough space for these animals is necessary. It is best to buy these tortoises from a reputable breeder, especially because they are an endangered species (due to the pet industry). They are fairly expensive and can be up to $500. These tortoises are pretty shy and will need areas to hide or burrow. They prefer not to be handled, but they are very docile. They aren't very aggressive or territorial, either. These tortoises do happen to carry salmonella, so it is important to wash your hands after caring for these creatures. Their enclosures need to be humid with a light and heat source, which must be timed. An escape-proof enclosure outside is a perfect place for them, as long as the area you live in is humid. Humidity levels can be measured by a humidity gauge. The temperature during the day should be 85-90 degrees Fahrenheit, and during the night it should never drop below 75. The tortoises will also need UVB rays to make Vitamin D3, and the substrate can be sphagnum moss, orchid bark, or cypress bark (which needs to be changed every 2 weeks or so). Misting might be required, depending on where you live. A puddle will also be needed for them to cool off. A shady area with lots of vegetation is also helpful for these tortoises. Spot-cleaning and disinfecting the enclosure and the water in it will help keep the tortoises healthy. These tortoises will eat leafy greens (main portion), fruits,  vegetables, and pellets (small portion). The best leafy greens are mustard greens, dandelion greens, escarole, and endive. They will also eat carrots, parsnip, sweet potato, papaya, figs, and hard melons. 
• Iguanas
• Iguanas are also native to Central and South America. They need a high level of care and are a major commitment (they can live up to 20 years). They also become very large, so you need a lot of room for them. They must be picked up routinely to learn trust and become more comfortable. Baby iguanas are quick, while adult iguanas are fairly slow and docile. Some even like to climb on their owners! They love climbing, so ramps, shelves, and branches will be necessary for their enclosure. The temperature of the enclosure should never drop below 75 degrees Fahrenheit- it needs to be above 85 so the iguana will be able to digest food. Heat lamps are common in iguana enclosures and recommended. Misting the enclosure or having a water bowl is also good to keep the humidity high. Remove any uneaten food/faeces/shed skin and spot clean the enclosure. Clean and replace food and water dishes daily, wipe down the enclosure with pet-safe cleaner and replace the wood substrate (but they spend most of their time climbing, so it's not too important). They eat pellets, dark leafy greens, some fruit, and calcium supplement. These creatures also have salmonella, so make sure to wash your hands after caring for an iguana. 
• Green Tree Python
• For this reptile, they can grow 4-8 feet, and it is recommended that the cage be 3x2x2 feet enclosures with lots of branches for climbing. The enclosures should not be too tall, or else the snakes will never come down to drink water. Horizontal space is much better than vertical space, as that is how these snakes climb.